Granite spires reaching for the sky, glaciers and forested valleys stretching out below...climbs for every ability and taste, from gentle snow and glacier climbing to steep, splitter cracks. This is the Bugaboos and it is all accessible from the comfortable >>Kain Hut, a half-day's walk from the road. Decide on a trip from the options below, or come up with your own itinerary.

Pigeon Spire West Ridge (3156 m/10,352 ft)

The "Bugs" are stunning, and Pigeon is perhaps the most enjoyable climb I offer. We can climb this peak in a 2 day trip from Banff - Lake Louise although I would recommend the 3 day option to better enjoy this area. We stay at the >>Kain Hut. The climb itself has an interesting glacier approach up and over Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Once on the ridge the climb is airy and in a fantastic position. Mostly 4th class with a few short bits of easy 5th class, the route is on solid granite with glaciers, peaks and wild valleys in every direction. If the 3 day option is chosen we can climb another peak such as Bugaboo Spire.

Difficulty: One of the easier classics. The approach to the hut takes about 4 hours and you will need to carry an overnight pack of about 12 kg/25 lbs. From the hut to climb the peak and return will take about 8 hours, with another 2 hours to descend to the car. The route has some steep snow, glacier travel and easy but exposed rock climbing. Maximum guide:guest ratio 1:2.
Trip length: 2 days, 3 day option is available and recommended.
Season: June to early September.
Prices start at:
2 days
1 person - C$1035
2 people - C$600 per person
3 days
1 person - C$1585
2 people - C$930 per person
Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).

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Bugaboo Spire (3204 m/10,509 ft)

Bugaboo Spire has two famous classics. We base ourselves out of the Kain Hut which is a 4 hour hike from the road.

Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
First climbed in 1916 by a party led by the famous guide Conrad Kain, this route was the most difficult rock climb in North America in it's day and it is still challenging! Starting up the Crescent Glacier we ascend steep snow slopes to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. From there the route starts easily up third class terrain until "the" gendarme is reached. A fifth class pitch here brings us to the upper mountain and more fourth and fifth class terrain deposits us on the summit. We descend the same route, downclimbing and rappelling. We can descend to the road the same day or I recommend making a 3 day trip to enjoy another route in the Bugs, such as Pigeon Spire.

Difficulty: Glacier travel, steep snow slopes and rock climbing up to 5.6. Expect about a 9 hour round trip from the hut, with another 2 hours down to the road. Maximum guide:guest ratio of 1:2.
Trip length:2 days, 3 day option is available and recommended.
Season: Mid-June to early September.
Prices start at:
2 days
1 person - C$1035
2 people - C$600 per person
3 days
1 person - C$1585
2 people - C$930 per person
Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).

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Bugaboo Spire, Northeast Ridge
Another great climb, but harder than the Kain Route. It follows an aesthetic soaring ridge to the north summit, then we traverse the peak and descend by way of the Kain Route. There are over 10 pitches of rock climbing up to 5.7, and lots of fourth class terrain. On the third day we can do a short climb near the hut before heading back down to the road.

Difficulty: Glacier travel, steep snow slopes and multiple pitches of rock climbing up to 5.7. Expect about a 12 hour round trip from the hut. Maximum guide:guest ratio of 1:2.
Trip length: 3 days.
Season: July to early September.
Prices start at:
1 person - C$1635
2 people - C$980 per person
Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax.

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S Howser Tower (3364 m/11,033 ft), Beckey/Chouinard

Oh, this is the line. Simply the best rock climb I have done, ever. Baffin, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Chamonix, none of those areas has a route like this. Reasonably easy access, a remote feel, sound rock quality and stellar, stellar climbing. How does miles of 5.8 climbing in hand and finger cracks on knobby granite sound? Throw in two short bits of 5.9 to spice it up and you have a classic. I do this trip in 5 days: 1.5 days to approach, a day on the route, a day in case of bad weather (or to climb another route), and a day back to the road.

Difficulty: 1.5 days with overnight packs to approach (heli access option: >>contact me for details). Lots of moderate climbing to 5.8. Two short sections of 5.9. Up to 20 pitches of climbing. Seven rappels and downclimbing on snow in descent. Expect 12-16 hours on summit day. Maximum guide:guest ratio 1:1. Maximum 2 guests per trip.
Trip length: 5 days.
Season: August
Price: C$2765 (1:1 guest:guide ratio only)
Price includes guiding fee, food, hut fees, group climbing and camping gear. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Ask about a shorter trip option with helicopter access.

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