Here you will find the classic mountaineering and alpine rock climbing ascents in the Rockies, Bugaboos and Rogers Pass. Most of these routes, but not all, require a little previous climbing experience. Perhaps you have done some rock climbing and would like to try alpine climbing, these are some objectives you could set your sights on.

Pick a route and let's go! Feel free to contact me to find out more.

Mt Athabasca (3491 m/11,450 ft), Columbia Icefields

Mt Athabasca is the most accessible glaciated peak in North America. Located at the Columbia Icefields 150 km north of Lake Louise, it is many climbers' first experience in glaciated mountaineering and the North Glacier route is achievable in most weather and snow conditions. Two other classics are also found on this peak: the Silverhorn and the North Face. All can be made as a one day trip from Banff - Lake Louise, although it is a bit easier to make the 2 hour drive to the icefields the evening before and stay in the car campground so we can get an early start.

Athabasca North Glacier
We make an early start to ensure the firmest snow conditions on the route. We begin our ascent by walking up a trail through the moraines before gaining the glacier. A stroll up the ice and snow of the glacier leads us to the final summit ridge. On top we have exceptional views of icefields and peaks stretching off in all directions. Descent is by the same route.

Difficulty: Walking on rocky ground and on snow and ice. Two short exposed sections. Expect 10-12 hours of steady travel. This trip is appropriate for anyone who is motivated and has a regular fitness routine.
Trip length: One day, with the night before spent at the icefields campground; or one and a half days that includes a half day training before the climb. Hotel accommodation option available.
Season: June through September
Price for one day trip: Includes guiding fee, most climbing equipment. Some camping equipment available if required (tent). Price does not include 5% GST tax, food or camping fees. Take 10% off during the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).
1 person - C$500
2 people - C$275 per person
3 people - C$200 per person   
4 people - C$165 per person
Contact me on pricing for larger groups
Price for 1.5 day trip: Includes guiding fee, most climbing equipment. Some camping equipment equipment available if required (tent). Take 10% off during the low season (before July 1 and after September 7). Price does not include food, camping fees or 5% GST tax.
1 person - C$675
2 people - C$365 per person
3 people - C$260 per person    
4 people - C$210 per person
Catered option: Add $35 per person.
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Mt Athabasca, Silverhorn
The Silverhorn is a steeper route than the North Glacier and it is an appropriate route for someone who has done a previous glacier ascent or some ice climbing glaciers. There is a short section  of ice to 50 degrees but most of the route is significantly less steep than that.

Difficulty: Walking on rocky ground and on snow and ice. A short steep pitch and a longer section of about 35 degrees. Expect 10-12 hours of steady travel. Maximum guide:guest ratio of 1:2.
Trip length: One day with the night before spent at the campground (hotel option available).
Season: June through September
Price for one day trip: Includes guiding fee, most climbing equipment. Some camping equipment available if required (tent). Price does not include 5% GST tax, food or camping fees. Take 10% off during the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).
1 person - C$500
2 people - C$275 per perso
Contact me on pricing for larger groups

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Mt Athabasca, North Face
This route is the next step up from the Silverhorn. It involves a longer glacier approach than the other Athabasca routes and then about 9 pitches of ice climbing with an average angle of 55 degrees. There is a very short, easy mixed section. This is THE classic ice face in the range and is perfect for anyone who wants learn what alpine ice is all about.

Difficulty: Walking on rocky ground and on snow and ice. 9 pitches of 55 degree ice with a short, easy mixed section. Expect 10-12 hours of steady travel. Maximum guide:guest ratio 1:2.
Trip length: One day with the night before spent at the campground (hotel option available).
Season: June through September
Price for one day trip: Includes guiding fee, most climbing equipment. Some camping equipment available if required (tent). Price does not include 5% GST tax, food or camping fees. Take 10% off during the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).
1 person - C$525
2 people - C$285 per person
Contact me on pricing for larger groups

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Mt Victoria South Ridge (3464 m/11,361 ft) or
Mt Lefroy West Face (3423 m/11,227 ft), Lake Louise

Mt Victoria and Mt Lefroy provide the stunning backdrop above Lake Louise. These peaks are accessible for anyone with a bit of motivation and fitness. Previous climbing experience is an asset here but not absolutely required. This is a 2 day trip; we spend the first day climbing to Abbott Pass from Lake O'Hara and spend the night in the historic Abbott Hut, a stone building built in 1922. The next day we pick our objective and climb it. Which peak we go up depends on the conditions: Lefroy is better when it is snowy and Victoria is better when it is dry. In good all-round conditions we can make this into a 3 day trip and climb both peaks, contact me for details. We descend back to the valley on our summit day.

Difficulty: Walking on steep scree for a few hours with a 10 kg/20 lb pack to get to the hut. Lefroy is a 35 degree snow/ice climb. Victoria is a narrow and wonderfully exposed mixed ridge with some short sections of easy rock climbing. Expect an 8-10 hour day on the summit day. Maximum guide:guest ratio 1:2.
Trip length: 2 days. 3 day option available.
Season: June through September.
Price for 2 day trip: Includes guiding fee, hut fees, food, most climbing equipment, park fees and Lake O'Hara bus fare. Take 10% off for low season (before July 1 and after September 7). Price does not include 5% GST tax.
1 person - C$975
2 people - C$585 per person
Contact me on pricing for larger groups
Price for 3 day trip: Includes guiding fee, hut fees, food, most climbing equipment, park fees and Lake O'Hara bus fare. Take 10% off for low season (before July 1 and after September 7). Price does not include 5% GST tax.
1 person - C$1570
2 people - C$930 per person
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Mt Edith Cavell East Ridge (3364 m/11,033 ft), Jasper

I think this is the best ridge climb in the Rockies. Long, exposed, firm rock, on a big peak with a short approach. And it's not too hard! Most rock climbing difficulties are 4th class, with a steeper step of about 5.5 climbing. There may be a bit of snow and ice near the summit. This route is good for anyone who is fit and motivated, especially if you have done a bit of rock climbing before. Previous climbing experience is not absolutely required.

Difficulty: Technical difficulties involve 5.5 rock climbing at the most. However, this can be a very long day as the route is about 1200 m/4000 ft in length. The descent can take as long as the route itself. Expect 12 hours or longer to complete the climb and descent.
Trip length: One day, with a 4 hour drive from Banff - Lake Louise the evening before and the night spent in Jasper.
Season: July to early September.
Price: Includes guiding fee and most climbing equipment. Jasper accommodation is not included. Overnight options in Jasper include camping, hotels and hostels but I recommend >>bed and breakfast accommodation. Price does not include food or 5% GST tax.
1 person - C$595
2 people - C$325 per person
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Mt Assiniboine North Ridge (3618 m/11,867 ft), Banff

Mt Assiniboine, the Matterhorn of the Rockies! Or as we like to say around here the Matterhorn is the Assinibone of the Alps... This striking peak is a "must do" climb for any serious mountaineer. Fairly remote, the easiest way to get to the mountain is by helicopter. Scheduled flights occur on Sundays, Wednesdays and Fridays. This trip can be done in 3 days. The first day we fly in and climb up to the Hind Hut which involves some 4th and 5th class climbing. The middle day we climb the peak. The route consists of a long ridge, quite broad at the bottom, which progressively gets steeper and more exposed. It is mostly rock but snow and ice may be found high on the peak. The rock quality is generally poor and prior experience on a similar, smaller peak is beneficial. Descent is by the same route and takes as long as the ascent! The last day is spent descending to the valley and catching our flight out. A four day trip option is available also, this gives us an extra day to wait out any bad weather or, if the weather is good, we can climb another peak in the area.

Difficulty: Technical difficulties are mostly 4th class rock, with some 5.6 steps. The rock quality is poor and previous experience on this sort of climbing is an asset. Expect a long summit day, at least 10 hours.
Trip length: 3 days (trip must start on a Wednesday or Friday), 4 day option is available (trip must start on a Sunday). Maximum guide:guest ratio 1:1.
Season: Mid-July to early September.
Price: Includes guiding fee, helicopter flight, food, hut and most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax.
3 days
1 person - C$2100
2 people - C$1975 per person (2 guides)
4 day option
1 person - C$3060
2 people - C$2670 per person (2 guides)

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Pigeon Spire West Ridge (3156 m/10,352 ft), Bugaboos

The Bugaboos are a region of granite towers jutting out of the surrounding glaciers situated in the Purcell Mountains, a 3 hour drive west of Banff - Lake Louise. The "Bugs" are stunning, and Pigeon is perhaps the most enjoyable climb I offer. We can climb this peak in a 2 day trip from Banff - Lake Louise although I would recommend the 3 day option to better enjoy this area. We stay at the Kain Hut. The climb itself has an interesting glacier approach up and over Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Once on the ridge the climb is airy and in a fantastic position. Mostly 4th class with a few short bits of easy 5th class, the route is on solid granite with glaciers, peaks and wild valleys in every direction. If the 3 day option is chosen we can climb another peak such as Bugaboo Spire.

Difficulty: One of the easier classics. The approach to the hut takes about 4 hours and you will need to carry an overnight pack of about 12 kg/25 lbs. From the hut to climb the peak and return will take about 8 hours, with another 2 hours to descend to the car. The route has some steep snow, glacier travel and easy but exposed rock climbing. Maximum guide:guest ratio 1:2.
Trip length: 2 days, 3 day option is available and recommended.
Season: June to early September.
Price: Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).
2 days
1 person - C$1035
2 people - C$600 per person
3 days
1 person - C$1585
2 people - C$930 per person
Contact me on pricing for larger groups

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Bugaboo Spire (3204 m/10,509 ft), Bugaboos

The Bugaboos are a region of granite towers jutting out of the surrounding glaciers situated in the Purcell Mountains, a 3 hour drive west of Banff - Lake Louise. This area has perhaps the best alpine rock climbing in Canada, and Bugaboo Spire has two famous classics. We base ourselves out of the Kain Hut which is a 4 hour hike from the road.

Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route
First climbed in 1916 by a party led by the famous guide Conrad Kain, this route was the most difficult rock climb in North America in it's day and it is still challenging! Starting up the Crescent Glacier we ascend steep snow slopes to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col. From there the route starts easily up third class terrain until "the" gendarme is reached. A fifth class pitch here brings us to the upper mountain and more fourth and fifth class terrain deposits us on the summit. We descend the same route, downclimbing and rappelling. We can descend to the road the same day or I recommend making a 3 day trip to enjoy another route in the Bugs, such as Pigeon Spire.

Difficulty: Glacier travel, steep snow slopes and rock climbing up to 5.6. Expect about a 9 hour round trip from the hut, with another 2 hours down to the road. Maximum guide:guest ratio of 1:2.
Trip length:2 days, 3 day option is available and recommended.
Season: Mid-June to early September.
Prices: Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).
2 days
1 person - C$1035
2 people - C$600 per person
3 days
1 person - C$1585
2 people - C$930 per person
Contact me on pricing for larger groups

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Bugaboo Spire, Northeast Ridge
Another great climb, but harder than the Kain Route. It follows an aesthetic soaring ridge to the north summit, then we traverse the peak and descend by way of the Kain Route. There are over 10 pitches of rock climbing up to 5.7, and lots of fourth class terrain. On the third day we can do a short climb near the hut before heading back down to the road.

Difficulty: Glacier travel, steep snow slopes and multiple pitches of rock climbing up to 5.7. Expect about a 12 hour round trip from the hut. Maximum guide:guest ratio of 1:2.
Trip length: 3 days.
Season: July to early September.
Price: Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the low season (before July 1 and after September 7).
1 person - C$1635
2 people - C$980 per person
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Mt Tupper West Ridge (2804 m/9197 ft), Rogers Pass

This route is a lot of fun. It goes up a stepped ridge of solid quartzite rock. Short s teep 5th class walls are interspersed with easier sections in between. We start the trip by going up to Hermit Meadows and setting up camp overlooking the historic Rogers Pass and across to the Asulkan peaks and Sir Donald. The next day we do the climb and descend back to the highway. Stay an extra day and climb another peak from the same camp! Rogers Pass is a 2.5 hour drive weat of Banff - Lake Louise.

Difficulty: We need to carry overnight packs of about 15 kg/35 lbs up a steep trail for about 4 hours. From camp we walk over broken rock and snow and on the ridge we climb 4th and short bits of 5th class terrain (5.7). Descent is by the same route. Maximum guide:guest ratio is 1:2.
Trip length: 2 days. 3 day option available.
Season: June through September.
Price: Includes guiding fee, food, camping fees, most climbing equipment. Price does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the off season (before July 1 and after September 1).
2 days
1 person - C$970
2 people - C$565 per person
3 days
1 person - C$1475
2 people - C$865 per person
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Asulkan Traverse (2786 m/9138 ft), Rogers Pass

This is the best ridge traverse in Canada! An easy approach, beautifully firm quartzite, a high bivy in a mountain hut and a glacier descent. This trip has it all. We start by driving to Rogers Pass early (2.5 hours) and then hiking a beautiful trail to the start of our climb. The first day we traverse Mt Abbott, Mt Afton, The Rampart and The Dome to Sapphire Col and a bivy in the small hut there. The next day it is up and over Mt Jupiter before descending the Asulkan Glacier to the valley.

Difficulty: We need to be able to carry a light overnight pack 12 kg/25 lbs on a long 4th and easy 5th class ridge (5.4).  Expect about 10 hours of climbing the first day, and 8 the second day.
Trip length: 2 days.
Season: Mid-June to early September.
Price: Includes guiding fee, food, hut, most climbing equipment. Does not include 5% GST tax. Take 10% off in the off season (before July 1 and after September 1).
1 person - C$970
2 people - C$565 per person
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Mt Sir Donald (3284 m/10,772 ft), Rogers Pass

Another stunning Matterhorn-like peak, only this one has great rock! A quartzite classic (one of the "50 Classics") in Rogers Pass, which lies a 2.5 hour drive west of Banff - Lake Louise. And not too hard either, only about 5.4, but long and involved, especially the descent which takes as long as the climb up. If you do one peak in Canada, make this the one. It is a 2 day trip, with the first day requiring an approach to our camp. The second day we climb and head back home. Or take the 3 day option and climb a route on Uto Peak too (this also gives us a day to deal with uncertain weather if it occurs and gives the most chance of success for Sir Donald).

Difficulty: We need to carry an overnight pack of about 15 kg/30 lbs on a steep trail for about 5 hours to get to camp. The route will take 8-10 hours, with another 3 hours to descend to the valley afterwards. You need to be able to climb up and down 5.4 rock for extended periods. Guide:guest ratio 1:1.
Trip length: 2 days, 3 day option available.
Season: July to early September
Price: Includes guiding fee, food, camping fees, most climbing equipment. Does not include 5% GST tax.
2 days
1 person - C$1020
2 people - C$920 per person
3 days
1 person - C$1525
2 people - C$1395 per person
Contact me on pricing for larger groups

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