Gear list for mountaineering trips

  • Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip! 
  • All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.
  • Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) older than 7 years must be replaced.
  • Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. I recommend replacing hard gear that is more than 10 years old.
  • If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.

Climbing gear


Boots

  • For steeper snow and ice climbs a full shank mountaineering boot is required (Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc). Examples:
    • La Sportiva Nepal
    • Scarpa Rebel
    • Scarpa Mont Blanc
  • A lighter, more nimble boot is more appropriate for moderate glacier routes (Mt Athabasca normal route or AA Col), or alpine rock climbs with trail or glacier approaches (Eisenhower Tower, Bugaboos). Examples:
    • La Sportiva Trango S Evo
    • Scarpa Charmoz

Crampons

  • A pair of rigid 12-point crampons are required. These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings. Examples:
    • Petzl Vasak
    • Black Diamond Sabretooth
  • I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions. 
  • I can provide crampons if required.

Ice axe

  • A technical ice axe is required. This axe should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop. Examples:
    • Petzl Sum’Tec Adze
    • Black Diamond Venom
  • I can supply an ice axe if required

Helmet

  • Bring a helmet designed for climbing
  • Your helmet needs to be free of damage
  • I can supply a helmet if required

Harness

  • A sit harness with a belay loop is required
  • Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and less than 7 years old
  • I can supply a harness if required

Crevasse rescue kit 

I can supply these if you need

  • 3 locking carabiners
  • 3 non-locking carabiners
  • Two 5m lengths of 7mm prussic cord
  • One 120 cm sewn sling

Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner

  • I recommend the Mammut Alpine Smart but any tube-type device is fine
  • I can supply a belay/rappel device if required

Rock climbing shoes and lightweight approach shoes

  • In case we end up doing some rock climbs/rock peaks if weather or conditions are not conducive for alpine climbing

Sleeping bag

  • For huts a bag rated from +5 to 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for summer trips. Down or synthetic are both fine.

Sleeping pad

  • For camping trips only. Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer or the Exped DownMat 7 for winter. They are the warmest, most comfortable and least bulky option. 

Hut/camp slippers or sandals

  • Only a light pair of footwear is required around the hut or camp. Bedroom slippers or a light pair of sandals are fine.

Cup/bowl/spoon

  • For camping only, the huts have all this stuff

Clothing systems


Socks, underwear and t-shirts

  • Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Long underwear top and bottoms

  • I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Climbing pants

  • A Schoeller type soft shell fabric is highly recommended. 

Softshell jacket

  • I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece. 

Insulated jacket

  • I prefer a light synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold! 

Gore-tex jacket and pants

  • A hooded waterproof jacket rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.  

Hats

  • A warm toque
  • A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)
  • A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended

Gloves

  • Warm ski-type gloves
  • Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required
  • A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions

Gaiters

  • Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions. 

Backpack

  • 30-40 L pack for day trips
  • 55-65 L pack for overnights

Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection

  • At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended. 
  • Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.

Small first aid and repair kit

  • I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.

Water bottle and/or thermos

  • I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids

Extendable walking pole

  • This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.

Headlamp

  • Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning. 

Personal toilet kit

  • Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper
  • Hand sanitizer is required
  • Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended

Camera

  • Bring extra batteries.

I’ll provide…

  • Communications device (radio and/or satellite phone)
  • GPS, map and compass
  • First aid and repair kit
  • Emergency shelter and evacuation kit
  • Group climbing gear (rope etc)
  • Group camping gear (tent, stove, fuel, etc)
  • An emergency communication device you will carry (SPOT device)