Equipment tips

• Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!

• All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.

• Consider replacing helmets, harnesses, slings, prussiks that are more than 10 years old.

• Any hard safety gear (ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn.

• If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.

Things to bring everyday

Boots

• Most of the climbing will be on snow, ice, or easy rock. A bit of a stiffer, more waterproof boot will be best for most objectives. Examples: Scarpa Mont Blanc or Manta; Sportiva Nepal.

• A lighter weight mountaineering boot is also appropriate for all the routes we may do. Examples: Scarpa Charmoz or Zodiac Tech GTX; Sportiva Trango. These boots will be best for the rock climb on Mt Monica.

• We may have room in the helicopter to bring two pairs of boots, but be prepared to leave one pair behind at the last minute if we don’t have room (meaning you need to make a decision ahead of time on which pair to bring in that case!).

Crampons

• These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings.

• We need to have anti-balling plates on our crampons. No exceptions.

• Both 10- or 12-point crampons are adequate.

Ice axe

• Any ice axe 50 cm or longer will suffice.

Helmet

• Bring a helmet designed for climbing.

• Your helmet needs to be free of damage.

Harness

• A sit harness with a belay loop is required.

• Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear.

Crevasse rescue kit 

• 2 locking carabiners

• 2 non-locking carabiners

• One 5m length of 6 mm prussic cord

• One 120 cm sewn sling

• Optional if you have it: 1 Tibloc or equivalent with locking carabiner, 1 Micro-Traction or equivalent with locking carabiner

AVALANCHE RESCUE equipment

• I do not expect to require avalanche equipment for this trip, but if it is a late spring with slab avalanche potential we will need it. I will let you know shortly before the trip if we should bring it. If we need avalanche rescue gear, this is what is required:

  • Shovel

  • Probe

  • Avalanche transceiver

• I can provide this equipment if required. $15/day charge for avalanche transceivers.

Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner

• Any tube-type device is fine.

Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection

• At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.

• Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.

Small first aid and repair kit

• The guides will have an extensive first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.

Food / drink Containers

• Lunch bag. Bring ziplocks for sandwiches and treats.

• Water bottle(s) and/or thermos. I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids.

Extendable walking pole(s)

• This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack.

Headlamp

• Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.

Personal toilet kit

• Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper

• Hand sanitizer

Camera (optional)

• Consider extra batteries or a portable charging unit.

Satellite Messaging Device (optional)

• InReach, Spot, etc for being able to keep in touch with family or to use in an emergency.

• Although the guides will have emergency communication devices it helps for some or all of the group to have them too.

GROUP GEAR

• You may be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.

Backpack to put it all into

• 35-45 L pack.

• Have this packed for the flight in with all the climbing gear that you will take on a daily basis.

• Do not have anything attached to the outside of the pack for the flight in. If you can’t fit your helmet, crampons, ice axe etc in then have that gear in a duffle or loose and we will pack it separately.

Clothing systems

Socks, underwear and t-shirts

• Bring a couple of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Long underwear top and bottoms

• I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Climbing pants

• A soft shell fabric is highly recommended, rather than hardshell (Gore-Tex).

Softshell jacket

• I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.

Insulated jacket(S)

• For the climbs I prefer a synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible.

• It makes sense to have another, warmer puffy jacket for around camp (down or synthetic).

Gore-tex jacket and pants

• A hooded waterproof jacket and rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.

Hats

• A warm toque for stops or around camp and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill or under a helmet.

• A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat).

• A balaclava or Buff for stormy weather.

Gloves

• Warm ski-type gloves. Gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are best.

• One or two pairs of lightweight gloves. Drying gear may be a bit difficult so having spares is a good idea.

Gaiters

• Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.

around camp

Tent

• I can supply a tent for an extra charge.

Sleeping bag

• A bag rated to about 0 degrees Celsius +/- is generally all that is needed. Down or synthetic are both fine. Bring something warmer if you sleep cold!

• It is worthwhile to bring a light over- or inner-bag to beef up your sleeping system if it ends up being cooler.

Sleeping pad

• Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses. Insulated ones can be cushy and weight is not an issue.

• The camping should be on rock unless it is a cold spring, then it may be on snow.

Camp Chair

• A lightweight, folding chair.

Camp clothes and footwear

• Your normal around town clothing is nice to have in the camp.

• Make sure you have warm layers for camp as it can be chilly. It makes sense to have a warm puffy jacket (other than your climbing clothing) for around camp (down or synthetic). Insulated overpants are an option.

• Camp shoes that are good for rocky ground and snow patches.

Charging device

• An external battery pack to charge up your phone or other electronics.

eating

• Bowl, plate, fork/knife/spoon, go mug.

• Although all food is provided, if you have favourite snacks, drink crystals etc feel free to bring some (don’t go overboard!).

Camp Toiletries

• Toothbrush etc.

• Biodegradable soap/shampoo.

• Wet wipes.

• Hand sanitizer.

• Ear plugs (for sleeping).

• If we have a shower it may not be too private so a top/shorts that you can bathe in.

Duffel Bag(S)

• For packing your camp gear into for the flight in. Smaller bags are better than larger ones for loading the helicopter, even if there are more of them. Each bag should be 20 kg or less.

PACKING

This is how you should pack for the flights:

• Dressed for climbing with climbing boots on.

• One day pack with all the gear and clothing you would normally use for a day of climbing. DO NOT have things attached to the outside of the pack.

• One medium or two smaller duffle bags with your camping gear. These need to be less than 20 kg apiece. Smaller bags are easier to pack than large ones even if there are more of them.

• Any climbing gear that you can’t fit in your day pack can be in another small duffel (spare climbing boots, ice axe, helmet, crampons, etc).

communal gear

The guides will provide…

• Communications device (radio and/or satellite messenger).

• GPS, map and compass.

• First aid and repair kit.

• Emergency shelter and evacuation kit.

• Group climbing gear (ropes etc).

Equipment provided in camp

• Cooking and dining tent (limited drying space for clothing).

• Cook stove and cooking equipment.

• Food.

• Outdoor sit-down toilets with toilet paper.

• Shower (maybe).

• Electric bear fence for around the cook tent.