Gear list for mountaineering trips

  • Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!

  • All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.

  • Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) older than 7 years must be replaced.

  • Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. I recommend replacing hard gear that is more than 10 years old.

  • If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.

Climbing gear


Boots

  • For steeper snow and ice climbs a full shank mountaineering boot is required (Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc). Examples:

    • La Sportiva Nepal

    • Scarpa Rebel

    • Scarpa Mont Blanc

  • A lighter, more nimble boot is more appropriate for moderate glacier routes (Mt Athabasca normal route or AA Col), or alpine rock climbs with trail or glacier approaches (Eisenhower Tower, Bugaboos). Examples:

    • La Sportiva Trango S Evo

    • Scarpa Charmoz

Crampons

  • A pair of rigid 12-point crampons are required. These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings. Examples:

    • Petzl Vasak

    • Black Diamond Sabretooth

  • I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions.

  • I can provide crampons if required.

Ice axe

  • A technical ice axe is required. This axe should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop. Examples:

    • Petzl Sum’Tec Adze

    • Black Diamond Venom

  • I can supply an ice axe if required

Helmet

  • Bring a helmet designed for climbing

  • Your helmet needs to be free of damage

  • I can supply a helmet if required

Harness

  • A sit harness with a belay loop is required

  • Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and less than 7 years old

  • I can supply a harness if required

Crevasse rescue kit 

I can supply all of this if you need

  • 2 locking carabiners

  • 2 non-locking carabiners

  • One 5m length of 6 mm prussic cord

  • One 120 cm sewn sling

  • Optional if you have it: 1 Tibloc or equivalent with locking carabiner, 1 Micro-Traction or equivalent with locking carabiner

AVALANCHE RESCUE KIT

  • I can provide this if required.

  • Avalanche gear may be required for certain early or late season trips. We will discuss this at time of booking.

  • Shovel

  • Probe

  • Avalanche transceiver

Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner

  • I recommend the Mammut Alpine Smart but any tube-type device is fine

  • I can supply a belay/rappel device if required

Rock climbing shoes and lightweight approach shoes

  • In case we end up doing some rock climbs/rock peaks if weather or conditions are not conducive for alpine climbing

Other Equipment

Backpack

  • 30-40 L pack for day trips

  • 45-55 L pack for hut based trips

  • 55-65 L pack for camp based trips

Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection

  • At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.

  • Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.

Small first aid and repair kit

  • I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.

Water bottle and/or thermos

  • I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids

Extendable walking pole

  • This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.

Headlamp

  • Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.

Personal toilet kit

  • Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper

  • Hand sanitizer is required

  • Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended

Camera

  • Bring extra batteries.

Clothing systems


Socks, underwear and t-shirts

  • Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Long underwear top and bottoms

  • I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.

Climbing pants

  • A Schoeller type soft shell fabric is highly recommended.

Softshell jacket

  • I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.

Insulated jacket

  • I prefer a light synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold!

Gore-tex jacket and pants

  • A hooded waterproof jacket rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.

Hats

  • A warm toque

  • A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)

  • A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended

Gloves

  • Warm ski-type gloves

  • Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required

  • A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions

Gaiters

  • Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.

hut BASED trips

Sleeping bag

  • For huts a bag rated from +5 to 0 degrees Celsius is all that is needed. Down or synthetic are both fine.

Sleeping pad

  • NOT required, all the huts have sleeping pads with the EXCEPTION being Sapphire Col Hut where a sleeping pad is REQUIRED.

Hut/camp slippers or sandals

  • Only a light pair of footwear is required around the hut. Slippers, lightweight shoes or sandals are fine.

Cup/bowl/spoon

  • NOT required, all the huts have utensils with the EXCEPTION being Sapphire Col Hut where a cup/bowl/spoon is REQUIRED.

BACKPACK

  • 45-55 litre capacity will get you up to the hut. You may want to bring a small daypack that fits into your larger backpack for the climbing days, but your larger pack may work well too.

  • You will need to fit food and group gear into your backpack.

FOOD

  • We will discuss catering options at the time of booking. No matter how we work it you will need to have enough room in your pack for carrying food.

GROUP GEAR

  • You will be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.

TENT Camp BASED trips

Sleeping bag

  • A bag rated from to about 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for camping trips in July and August. Down or synthetic are both fine.

  • For camping trips in the spring and fall, or for camps on a glacier at anytime, a warmer bag will be required. A bag rated to -10 C is appropriate.

Sleeping pad

  • Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer or the Exped DownMat 7 for winter. They are the warmest, most comfortable and least bulky option.

Hut/camp slippers or sandals

  • Only a light pair of footwear for off-snow camping. Slippers, lightweight shoes or sandals are fine. For camps on snow or glaciers a pair of insulated booties will be more appropriate.

Cup/bowl/spoon

  • Required for camping trips.

BACKPACK

  • 55-65 litre capacity will get you up to the camp. You may want to bring a small daypack that fits into your larger backpack for the climbing days, but your larger pack may work well too.

  • You will need to fit food and group gear into your backpack.

FOOD

  • We will discuss catering options at the time of booking. No matter how we work it you will need to have enough room in your pack for carrying food.

GROUP GEAR

  • You will be required to carry some of the group gear (rescue equipment, climbing equipment) and you will need room in your pack to do so.

guide gear

I’ll provide…

  • Communications device (radio and/or satellite phone)

  • GPS, map and compass

  • First aid and repair kit

  • Emergency shelter and evacuation kit

  • Group climbing gear (rope etc)

  • Group camping gear (tent, stove, fuel, etc)

  • An emergency communication device you will carry (SPOT device)