Gear list for mountaineering trips
Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!
All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.
Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) older than 7 years must be replaced.
Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. I recommend replacing hard gear that is more than 10 years old.
If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.
For steeper snow and ice climbs a full shank mountaineering boot is required (Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc). Examples:
La Sportiva Nepal
Scarpa Mont Blanc
A lighter, more nimble boot is more appropriate for moderate glacier routes (Mt Athabasca normal route or AA Col), or alpine rock climbs with trail or glacier approaches (Eisenhower Tower, Bugaboos). Examples:
La Sportiva Trango S Evo
A pair of rigid 12-point crampons are required. These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings. Examples:
Black Diamond Sabretooth
I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions.
I can provide crampons if required.
A technical ice axe is required. This axe should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop. Examples:
Petzl Sum’Tec Adze
Black Diamond Venom
I can supply an ice axe if required
Bring a helmet designed for climbing
Your helmet needs to be free of damage
I can supply a helmet if required
A sit harness with a belay loop is required
Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and less than 7 years old
I can supply a harness if required
Crevasse rescue kit
I can supply these if you need
3 locking carabiners
3 non-locking carabiners
Two 5m lengths of 7mm prussic cord
One 120 cm sewn sling
Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner
I recommend the Mammut Alpine Smart but any tube-type device is fine
I can supply a belay/rappel device if required
Rock climbing shoes and lightweight approach shoes
In case we end up doing some rock climbs/rock peaks if weather or conditions are not conducive for alpine climbing
Camping and hut trips
For huts and camping a bag rated from +5 to 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for huts or for camping trips in July and August. Down or synthetic are both fine.
For camping trips in the spring and fall, or for camps on a glacier at anytime, a warmer bag may be required.
For camping trips only. Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer or the Exped DownMat 7 for winter. They are the warmest, most comfortable and least bulky option.
Hut/camp slippers or sandals
Only a light pair of footwear is required around the hut or for off-snow camping. Bedroom slippers or a light pair of sandals are fine. For camps on snow or glaciers a pair of insulated booties will be more appropriate.
For camping only, the huts have all this stuff
Socks, underwear and t-shirts
Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.
Long underwear top and bottoms
I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.
A Schoeller type soft shell fabric is highly recommended.
I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.
I prefer a light synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold!
Gore-tex jacket and pants
A hooded waterproof jacket rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.
A warm toque
A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)
A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended
Warm ski-type gloves
Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required
A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions
Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.
30-40 L pack for day trips
55-65 L pack for overnights
Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection
At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.
Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.
Small first aid and repair kit
I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.
Water bottle and/or thermos
I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids
Extendable walking pole
This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.
Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.
Personal toilet kit
Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper
Hand sanitizer is required
Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended
Bring extra batteries.
Communications device (radio and/or satellite phone)
GPS, map and compass
First aid and repair kit
Emergency shelter and evacuation kit
Group climbing gear (rope etc)
Group camping gear (tent, stove, fuel, etc)
An emergency communication device you will carry (SPOT device)