Gear list for mountaineering trips
- Having the proper equipment is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip!
- All gear and clothing needs to be in good condition and if new you must ensure that it fits well and you are familiar with its use.
- Any soft safety gear (harnesses, slings, prussiks) older than 7 years must be replaced.
- Any hard safety gear (helmets, ice axes, crampons, carabiners) must be inspected for cracks and wear; replace it if it is worn. I recommend replacing hard gear that is more than 10 years old.
- If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me; I may have some of the items you require available for you to borrow.
- For steeper snow and ice climbs a full shank mountaineering boot is required (Mt Athabasca north face routes, Mt Robson, etc). Examples:
- La Sportiva Nepal
- Scarpa Rebel
- Scarpa Mont Blanc
- A lighter, more nimble boot is more appropriate for moderate glacier routes (Mt Athabasca normal route or AA Col), or alpine rock climbs with trail or glacier approaches (Eisenhower Tower, Bugaboos). Examples:
- La Sportiva Trango S Evo
- Scarpa Charmoz
- A pair of rigid 12-point crampons are required. These need to fit your boot well – when fitted properly they will stick to your boot without the straps or bindings. Examples:
- Petzl Vasak
- Black Diamond Sabretooth
- I require all clients to have anti-balling plates on their crampons. No exceptions.
- I can provide crampons if required.
- A technical ice axe is required. This axe should have a drooped pick for ice climbing, be about 50-60 cm long and have a finger rest or an easily removable wrist loop. Examples:
- Petzl Sum’Tec Adze
- Black Diamond Venom
- I can supply an ice axe if required
- Bring a helmet designed for climbing
- Your helmet needs to be free of damage
- I can supply a helmet if required
- A sit harness with a belay loop is required
- Your harness needs to be free of damage and excessive wear and less than 7 years old
- I can supply a harness if required
Crevasse rescue kit
I can supply these if you need
- 3 locking carabiners
- 3 non-locking carabiners
- Two 5m lengths of 7mm prussic cord
- One 120 cm sewn sling
Belay/rappel device & locking carabiner
- I recommend the Mammut Alpine Smart but any tube-type device is fine
- I can supply a belay/rappel device if required
Rock climbing shoes and lightweight approach shoes
- In case we end up doing some rock climbs/rock peaks if weather or conditions are not conducive for alpine climbing
- For huts a bag rated from +5 to 0 degrees Celsius is generally all that is needed for summer trips. Down or synthetic are both fine.
- For camping trips only. Any kind will do but I prefer the thicker air mattresses such as the Thermarest Neoair XTherm or Exped SynMat UL for summer or the Exped DownMat 7 for winter. They are the warmest, most comfortable and least bulky option.
Hut/camp slippers or sandals
- Only a light pair of footwear is required around the hut or camp. Bedroom slippers or a light pair of sandals are fine.
- For camping only, the huts have all this stuff
Socks, underwear and t-shirts
- Bring one or two of each. Synthetic only, no cotton.
Long underwear top and bottoms
- I like a zip-t neck for my long sleeved top. I use lightweight long-johns and a medium weight top. Synthetic only, no cotton.
- A Schoeller type soft shell fabric is highly recommended.
- I like a hooded jacket, but it is not absolutely necessary. I avoid heavy fleece garments, as they are not wind-resistant and too warm for many activities. Rather, in cold conditions I will bring two thinner layers: a lightweight softshell and a second lightweight softshell or fleece.
- I prefer a light synthetic jacket that is lightweight, warm, and compressible. If you don’t bring one of these there is a good chance you will get cold!
Gore-tex jacket and pants
- A hooded waterproof jacket rain-proof pants are required. I prefer the lightweight Gore-tex such as Paclite or Proshell.
- A warm toque
- A sun hat (I prefer a Gilligan type hat)
- A balaclava for stormy weather and a lightweight toque for use while walking uphill are recommended
- Warm ski-type gloves
- Single gloves are OK for overnight trips but for multi-day trips, gloves with removable inners (easier to dry) are required
- A lightweight pair of gloves should also be brought for warm conditions
- Close-fitting gaiters are required so your crampons don’t snag them as easily. The shorter type gaiters seem to work well even in deeper snow conditions.
- 30-40 L pack for day trips
- 55-65 L pack for overnights
Sunglasses, sunscreen, lip protection
- At the very minimum a 30 SPF sunscreen and lip protection is required. Full sunblock for your lips is recommended.
- Sunglasses with wrap-around coverage and dark lenses are required.
Small first aid and repair kit
- I’ll have a major first aid and repair kit but you should bring some band-aids, blister protection (include blister pads and duct tape), headache pills, head cold/antihistamine medication, cough drops, rash cream, pocket knife.
Water bottle and/or thermos
- I usually carry about 1.5 - 2 L of liquids
Extendable walking pole
- This should be able to collapse small enough to fit into your pack. I may have extras you can use.
- Bring extra batteries, you may be using this for hours every morning.
Personal toilet kit
- Include toilet paper, and a baggie for used paper
- Hand sanitizer is required
- Ear plugs (for sleeping) and wet wipes are recommended
- Bring extra batteries.
- Communications device (radio and/or satellite phone)
- GPS, map and compass
- First aid and repair kit
- Emergency shelter and evacuation kit
- Group climbing gear (rope etc)
- Group camping gear (tent, stove, fuel, etc)
- An emergency communication device you will carry (SPOT device)